What is clicker training, FAQ, and Training Supplies

What is clicker training?

What is Clicker Training? It is training using almost entirely positive reinforcement - teaching your dog to learn... using no physical compulsion or corrections whatsoever. Sounds a bit unbelievable, but works incredibly well.

Instead of yanking dogs around, shoving them into place, giving some praise, and hoping the dog will make the connection, dogs are taught using the scientific methods of classical & operant conditioning. Anyone questioning how reliable a dog taught this way can be should take a trip to Sea World. There, the Orcas, dolphins, etc., are taught using these same methods. After all... you can't slip a choke chain around a whale's neck & give a jerk! And yet, these lovely creatures perform flawlessly for audience after audience. And have a blast doing it. The whole enjoyment feature is what really turned me on to positive training. I love my dogs, and although I want them to be responsive to me I dislike hurting them! With clicker training I don't have to.

The clicker itself is simply a little toy-like device that is used in the initial stages of training any behavior. It provides clear & precise communication between owner & dog and allows you both to concentrate on & enjoy the task at hand.

With positive reinforcement training there is no more forcing a dog to learn. Instead, the dog becomes eager to learn! Very tasty food treats are the primary reinforcers at first because they are easy to use but many, many other reinforcements are used as well - from squeaky toys to playing games. A dog trained this way will not be dependent upon food in order to respond.

Clicker training can be used to teach your dog (or just about any animal) regular pet obedience type behaviors as well as more advanced competition, trick or service behaviors. And the dogs love it!

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I have to use a clicker?
Well, no you don't. But I have found that they certainly speed up the training and make it more fun! The clicker is just so much more precise, and since you are using it to communicate with your dog, that precision makes everything so very much clearer to him. I call it the Dog-Human translator. But, you can try just using a word (see bridge word for more info), instead. For best results - use both! I know that although I primarily train with a clicker, I certainly still use my bridge word when my clicker isn't handy!

When to Start Training
Right now! These methods are so gentle, you can start with that 8 week old puppy you just brought home. Just remember that a young puppy is an infant - don't expect too much, especially with the stay. But teaching the attention work that early will do amazing things for your relationship!

Who Should Train
Everyone in the family! That is one of the best features of these techniques. They don't require that the dog see the trainer as dominant in the pack. Although it is still essential that at least one of the humans in the household be a clear leader (see How to be a Good Leader), even young children can teach the family dog to respond to them!

The way we used to train, many exercises such as the long down really became frustrating and made dominance a major issue. With positive training, dominance is usually a non issue. And as the relationship between dog and owner(s) grows, other dominance/aggression problems can really be helped.

And... if someone in the family messes up while training positively, the only damage is usually that the dog might take a bit longer to learn than otherwise. Only a person getting physically nasty will do real damage to the learning. Effort should be made, however, to have everyone be as consistent as possible. And although all family members can be trainers, it is best to have only one working with the dog at a time. Other people can hold the leash or stand nearby until it is their turn!

Training Supplies

COLLARS - We don't use any form of choke collar, chain or nylon. We prefer dogs wear a martingale style collar, such as the Premier Collar, which is a buckle collar with an extra loop to which the leash attaches. It will tighten if the dog tries to slip out of it, but only to the circumference of the dog's neck. It doesn't choke. Many people train using just their regular buckle collars. For dogs who are strong pullers, we recommend the Gentle Leader head collar. These must be used carefully so the dog doesn't injure his neck but can be wonderful. We still work on teaching the dogs to not pull on a regular collar, but with the Gentle Leader walks can instantly become enjoyable again.

LEASHES - A 4-6' foot leash is helpful to keep the dog with you until the attention work is accomplished. You will probably find a thin one made of cotton, nylon, or leather to be the most comfortable to use. You will likely find that you don't use a leash for much of the training (assuming you are inside or in a safe, enclosed area, that is!).

CLICKER - If you would like the precision & excitement of a clicker, check your local pet supply store (if you don't see them be sure to ask - the more requests they get the more likely they are to start stocking them!) or you can order one from 800-A-GOOD-DOG. They cost about $2. You might want to get one with a hole through which you can put a key ring. Attach a spiral bracelet, or a girl's ponytail holder to that so you can keep the clicker around your wrist.


TREATS - As your primary reinforcer in the beginning, the type of treat you choose is crucial! We have found that most commercial dog treats (especially those available at your local grocery store) are NOT going to be good enough to hold your dog's interest for long.

Otherwise, at Greenwood, we use "human" food as treats. Why? Because it is far healthier and far tastier. Pieces of hot dogs (slice them up & microwave until they are hard little chips), cheese (cheese sticks are really great & easy to use), roast beef (ask your butcher for deli ends -much cheaper), leftover steak, pizza crust, grapes... use your imagination & see what you dog REALLY loves! And did you know that prior to the 1930's there was no such thing as commercial "dog food"?

Be sure to use tiny little pieces of food as reinforcers. You do not want your dog getting fat!

If your dog doesn't seem that interested in your treats, try some different ones, and try practicing before your dog has had his dinner! Actually, you can feed him his entire dinner a bit at a time while practicing your exercises. Regular kibble is usually pretty low on the taste scale, however, so don't bother with it when you're practicing around distractions.

Using a variety of treats is essential. Even the best treat can get old quickly. Save the best tasting treats for teaching & practicing the recall and for when you are working around distractions.

Will my dog be dependent on seeing a treat before responding to me?
No, not if you follow the instructions carefully. A major component of these lessons is the concept of becoming variable with your reinforcements after your dog has shown he understands a particular step. Properly done, that will ensure that your pup doesn't become food dependent. Although I give my grown dogs treats fairly often, I certainly don't have treats with me all of the time! And yet my dogs do respond to my commands quite reliably.

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